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    2019 Hands-On Textile Forum Lead Us to Some Interesting Places

    This year’s Forum was a hands-on, up close and personal look at textile technology in transition. The group followed the changes in hand and powered technology as it brought factory spinning and weaving in competition with hand process.

    We took a closer look at the ingrain carpet patent head and the hand jacquard head to begin the conversation about carpet and coverlet weavers of the 19th century. And from this we have forged ahead with plans for 2020.

    When I began the Textile History Forum in 1998, I did it with the hope that we could present both academic papers and spend time in historic collections to examine textiles and textile tools. 2020 will give us that opportunity and more.

    Hyde Hall, a Regency great house located inside Glimmerglass State Park, Springfield NY, will be our home base.

    The vast collection of coverlets and textile tools including spinning wheels, looms, reeds, and small tools at the storage facility of the Farmers’ Museum in Cooperstown will be our laboratory.

    Pre-Forum visits may include Thistle Hill Weavers production mill, a workshop on dating and identifying textiles and a visit to the New York State Museum storage facility in Rotterdam, NY.

    Panel discussions are being planned for the Forum: what should we do with our private collections? Primary research methods for non-academics, and cataloguing personal collections will be among the sessions.

    We are now seeking papers for publication in the 2020 Proceedings on all topics of research relating to textiles, dyes, tools, and process.

    Mark your calendars, get your thinking caps on, submit your proposals and join us for a Textile History Forum 2020, to be held on July 31 – August 2, 2020. Contact us for more information and registration.

    Textile History Forum 2019 – Final Schedule

    Marshfield School of Weaving and Kate Smith’s Eaton Hill Textile Works

    Saturday, July 27 – Sunday, July 28

    The Mechanization and Powering of Textile Production 1700 to 1860.

    This July, explore transitional textile technology with us.

    How did innovation create tools, and machines that allowed for the powered production of textiles that ultimately changed the way we wear and use cloth? The forum will be both discussion and hands-on demonstration of some of those processes and equipment that changed fiber preparation, weaving and cloth finishing.

    Unlike other forums, this will be an intensive two days in which participants will learn and discuss some of the technology that allowed the development of ingrain carpet production, coverlet production, the production of napped and sheared cloth, the cheap production of cotton fabrics for the poorer classes and the interplay in rural America between the fancy weaver, the clothier and the local production of fiber. Some equipment will be set up for hands-on opportunities for participants.

    The registration fee of $225 includes all sessions and lunch on both days, as well as the optional visit to the Vermont Historical Society on Friday afternoon. If you have already registered but want to join the Friday Tour, please Contact us to confirm.

    Saturday morning session

    • A textile technology timeline
    • Understanding how bottlenecks in technology lead to innovation
    • Changes from hand to mechanical and water power in fiber processing and spinning create an opening for powered weaving technology

    Saturday afternoon session one:

    • Carding technology
    • Multiple spinning devices: the vertical spinner
    • The slubbing billy, the jenny, the jack and the mule
    • Patented spinning wheels, the pendulum wheel and other late innovations

    Saturday afternoon session two:

    • Looking at cloth, what can we tell?
    • How do we tell hand spun yarns in common cloths?
    • Machine spinning or home plying – can we tell?
    • Powered spinning technology and early spinning mills

    Sunday morning session

    • The mechanical draw loom and hand loom patterning devices
    • Kleenex and tissue: the ingrain carpet head and the jacquard head
    • Patented hand patterning devices

    Sunday afternoon session one:

    • The relationship between the fancy rural weaver and the home weaver
    • Reading and understanding fancy weavers advertisements as related to home spinning production

    Sunday afternoon session two:

    • Can we tell, by looking at how something was woven, what mechanical device was used?
    • Ingrain carpet and coverlets – the ultimate connection

    Upcoming Events: The Textile Forum and a Coverlet Symposium

    The Textile History Forum dates are set for 2019!

    Put it in your calendar: Friday, July 26, Saturday, July 27 and Sunday, July 28 at The Marshfield School of Weaving and Eaton Hill Studio, Marshfield, Vermont.

    This year’s Forum is a hands-on exploration of transitional technology from hand to mechanical power. Spinning, weaving and finishing technologies will all be included.

    Presenters Wanted: We are looking for presenters who have done research and have skills with traditional tools and process and would like to share their knowledge with others.

    We have acquired a few rare pieces of early technology to share including an 18th century “Slubby Billy.”

    Sessions will be small hands-on workshops. Its a chance to dig deep into textile process with traditional tools. We learn so much when we can actually try different methods and process to form a better understanding of the methods used in the past.

    Coverlet Symposium

    We are thinking of holding another Coverlet Symposium here at Thistle Hill Weavers and Hyde Hall in late May or early June, but first I would like to find out if there is interest again in exploring historic coverlets.

    The symposium would allow us to view our collection and an opportunity to examine any coverlets in your collection.

    The possibility of adding to the data base on coverlets would be an additional goal but mostly I would like to get together with folks who want to learn more about coverlet structures, makers, and their place in material culture of rural America. Do contact me if you are interested in the Symposium. Your responses will inform us whether to move ahead or not…..

    Winter Weaving Classes

    Weaving Fabric for Clothing

    Saturday, February 2 – Sunday, February 3

    Students will explore the process of choosing yarns, densities and weave structures that are suitable for weaving fabric for fine garments. Each student will choose yarns and patterns to create a series of samples during the workshop. The samples will allow students to choose a pattern, color way, and sett for their clothing fabric and create a plan based on their woven samples that will allow them to weave garment fabric at home.

    This workshop is designed for students who have some weaving experience and want to explore making fabric for clothing.

    Class cost is $150.00 per student. Class is limited to 5 students. All materials and lunches are included in the fee.

    Introduction to Pattern Hand Weaving for Beginners

    Friday, March 8 – Sunday March 10

    Weave a luxurious lightweight scarf in silk, bamboo, and alpaca – no experience necessary! This is a beginning weaving class that will teach you from start to finish how to set up a warp, wind, beam, thread, sley, weave and finish a beautiful scarf of your own.

    The class is limited to 5 students. Class hours are Friday at 1pm-4:30pm, Saturday 9am-4:30pm and Sunday 9am-4:30pm. Cost is $225.00 with all materials, equipment and lunches included.

    Come to Our Holiday Open House!

    Saturday, December 1st & Sunday, December 2nd

    With a special event on Saturday, December 1, from 4:30-5pm: Meet fashion designer Gary Graham .

    Our Show Room will be open from 9am to 5:30pm both Saturday and Sunday, and then weekdays through the holiday season.

    See our antique looms run, enjoy special gifts made from our fabric and learn about the trade of weaving.

    Come join us for mill tours, gift shopping and refreshments!

    Save the Date – Our Annual Open House

    We are looking to hire a mill worker/textile support staff

    Job Description: Mill worker/textile support staff.

    Hours: Monday thru Thursday 9am to 5pm (or 8:30 to 4:30), Friday until 12:30 or 1pm. 35-hour work week Entry level position must have sewing skills.

    Starting pay is $12.00 Two-month probation period.

    Benefits:

    Thistle Hill offers a greater amount of flexibility with personal time and daily schedule than most businesses. Family is important, sick children or family members need care. We understand short, unexpected occurrences. However, we are looking for a person who can make a commitment to a weekly schedule year-round.

    • Full time employees receive one personal or sick day per month after the probation period.
    • After 6 months, eligible for health benefits (negotiable)
    • Vacation: 5 days per year with an additional day for every additional year. Six paid holidays.
    • Year end bonus based on the mill’s production.
    • Simple IRA contribution of 3% . Employee can put in whatever they choose.

    Individual should have the following skills: Sewing by machine and hand

    We will teach:

    • Cloth inspection and finishing
    • Quill winding
    • Cone winding
    • Creel set up and take down
    • Tying in warps
    • Weaving on the power and hand looms

    Individual must be able:

    • Lift warp beam with one or two other people
    • Must be able to stand on concrete floor
    • Must be able to drive in winter weather
    • Must have good hand skills
    • Must be able to be flexible changing from tasks during the day
    • Long-term commitment to Thistle Hill Weavers
    • Must work well with everyone on the team. Good natured, sense of humor helps, doesn’t mind chaos.

    Please review our web site www.thistlehillweavers.com. Email resume to rabbitgoodythw@gmail.com. Call 518 284 2729.

    Notes on This Year’s Textile History Forum

    The Textile History Forum was an amazing event.

    This year’s Forum surpassed our greatest expectations. I know that that sounds very cliche but there are no better ways to express how grateful we feel for the time well spent. Seventy five people, all with an interest in textiles came together to network with each other; sharing knowledge, good food and a waulking of woolen cloth in a joyously beautiful Vermont setting.

    And from this we have forged ahead with plans for the future.

    When I began the Textile History Forum in 1998, I did it with the hope that we could present academic papers in a relaxed and sharing way. It has always been the goal to have the Proceedings published and available the day of the Forum and that each Textile History Forum would include diverse current research in all aspects of Textile History.

    Now it’s time to expand on the Forum’s mission to include academic papers one year, and hands-on textile technology sessions on alternate years.

    2019 July 26th, 27th and 28th Textile Technology: Coverlets. Carpets and Weavers’ Drafts

    The evaluation forms indicated that folks would love a truly hands-on set of sessions next July and to that end we are planning on a Forum of activity without formal papers. Textile technology is a very broad field and we are planning to have sessions that involve demonstrations and hands-on workshops on several aspects of weaving and spinning technology.

    We are putting out a call for presenters who are involved with any aspect of textile technology and who want to share their knowledge in a hands-on session.

    One of the sessions will be on figuring technology for coverlets. I have an ingrain carpet head and Kate has a hand Grosse Jacquard head that we can use to explore the development of figuring technology side by side with our extensive collections of coverlets.

    19th century spinning technology, especially the development of patent heads and multiple spindle equipment will also be a part of the Forum’s technology sessions next July.

    Proceedings of the Textile History Forum For Sale

    The Proceedings are available for those who didn’t attend or for anyone who would like additional copies. $35.00 includes mailing fees.

    Lastly, the Forum has a domain of its own now. TextileHIstoryForum.com. It still gets you to the Thistle Hill Weavers website, but more directly I hope.

    Please plan on joining the fun next July and pass it on. We look forward to seeing you then.

    Schedule for the 2018 Textile History Forum

    Here is the schedule of events for the 2018 Textile History Forum on Friday, July 27, Saturday, July 28 and Sunday, July 29, 2018, Please note that some of the events have limited sizes and the overall Forum attendance is capped at 75 people.

    If you wish to register and pay through our online store, you may do so here.

    If you wish to register online and then pay via check, credit card or Paypal, you may do so here.

    2018 Textile History Forum Registration Form

      The registration fee includes all workshops, two lunches, one dinner and a copy of the proceedings. Single day registrations are are also available.

      We have reserved a block of rooms at the Capital Hotel for the Forum at a reduced rate. Please call them directly if you are interested at (800) 274-5252.


      We accept the following types of payments:

      • Credit card payment over the phone at (518) 284-2729 or at our on-line store.
      • Paypal to rabbitgoodythw@gmail.com
      • Personal checks made payable to Thistle Hill Weavers and mailed to
        Thistle Hill Weavers
        143 Baxter Road
        Cherry Valley NY 13320